Veo 218 Vara

August 20, 2010

A photography project focusing on
San Francisco neighborhoods
200 yards at a time.

The first installment of 200 Yards — Valencia & 24th — last Wednesday at Heart, was packed.

Behold our 218 vara circle of interest:

The exhibit is up at Heart until September 20th, so go buy some scallops and a jar of red and stare at the wall for a while (or better yet buy something).

In the meantime, look upon my panoramas, ye mighty, and despair!

Click to zoom – Armand‘s are the 4 black & white shots in the center. As for the others, I lost my photo list so I sadly have no idea who took which photos.

I liked the set of street signs, though the standard curved panorama didn’t do them justice:

So I deployed my advanced and ever subtle shift-sideways panorama technique (note my multiple shadows). Once again, click to zoom for 2800 pixel wide madness.

And for some historical perspective:

The US Coast Survey Map near what will be 24th and Valencia in 1859. Racetracks, a small settlement along the road to San Jose just north of Precita Creek and Serpentine Ave (anyone know the story on that one?) The Bernal Racho is just visible at the bottom).

…and 1869, roads in place, previous settlement gone. San Francisco and San Jose RR cuts through the hood.

1889 Sanborn map of the 200 Yard area (quick and dirty paste, not my best work, lots of alignment issues, sorry).

Here’s the block that Heart is on. Heart was an empty field, the gas station was a drug store and two saloons (surprise), there was a candy factory in the middle of the block.  There was a chinese laundry, a butcher and another saloon (surprise) on the corner of 23rd and Valencia.

(Google Earth’s image overlay is really starting to piss me off — how about some upgrades? Drag and drop of images? Better resolution?  Tiling tools?  Grrrr.) Anyway, the unlayered map.

Much more to discuss in the area, but that will have to wait for another time. And thus concludes your history lesson, enjoy the weekend.


Chalky History

July 23, 2010

This is awesome.  I’m flattered.

URLs are hard to write in chalk, so here’s the post they’re referencing.

Before:

After:

Details, more photos and maps here.


Crescent Zoom

March 21, 2010

Hello giant fig tree.

Wait, what’s in that gap between the branches?

Zoom in a little more…

Good day, moon.

Gratuitous shot of wispy clouds that were in front of the moon but passed by before I could get my camera. Damned wind.

Moon, molding.  Molding, moon.


Name Brand Recognition

March 21, 2010

26th and Valencia Through The Ages

January 27, 2010

Restaurants and bars come and go. Toad’s is Dead, Long Live the South End Grill ‘n’ Bar. So say the signs. But history (oh why yes, history, as ye soon shall see) shows us there is no good reason a restaurant or bar can’t do well on that corner.

I never really saw that many people inside since it opened in early 2006.  Yelp suggests that the owners are redoing the menu. The La Lengua corridor does not forgive mediocrity.

Pi Bar certainly shows you can draw crowds with the right idea and execution. Show us what you’ve got, SEBnG.

But I do love this exciting Toad’s review on their website, via yelp:

the mission jumps into the bay…and swims to the bottom of the ocean…and stares…and stares…and stares at the bottom…and finds its soul…and finds its eternal flame…and emerges with newly found clarity and resolve…and produces a spectacular working class establishment that the old man would be proud of…

(drumroll again!)

toad’s is that establishment! toad’s is the old man’s prayer to the gentrification of the mission! toad’s is the retrosexual’s answer to the metro-pussification of the mission!

toad’s is simply a glorious pub/restaurant in the outskirt of the valencia area (valencia and 26th), which means no hipsters or metros cuz we all know that those people are too scared to venture past 24th street. omg! it’s soooo scaaary out there!

24th is certainly a hipster semipermeable membrane.

Anyway, that building has been there since at least 1889, and as you will no doubt be unsurprised, the corner has always had bars and restaurants aplenty as we can see from the Sanborn maps.  (Red are bars and green are restaurants. S stands for store, F for Flats and D for dwelling. (The Sanborn codes are deceiving – for the record, “Out Ho” sadly does not stand for out house, just “Outer Building”. But FB stands for Female Boarding, aka Bordello.))

Click to zoom:

Drilling into what was where when — in 1889, Toad’s/1499 Valencia was actually 1441 Valencia (but nothing shows up in the directories).  By 1899 the block had been renumbered we see that 1499 Valencia was run by James and Mary Ward.  James passed away sometime between 1901 and 1907, and  Mary ran the saloon for a few years afterward. (There is a widow Mary Ward listed in the neighborhood until 1913 though it is unclear if it’s the same one.)

By 1918 Chris Petersen had taken over, but Prohibition forced him to turn it into a soda fountain shop which he ran until at least 1927.

The history of the spot now occupied by Dovre Club across the street is even more interesting.

From at least 1886 to at least 1901 (if not 1906), a man with the particularly awesome name of Cornelius Crowley ran a saloon on the NW corner of 26th and Valencia.


Before the renumbering of Valencia, 1498 was 1442, so he lived above the bar in the start. But he soon did well enough to buy a lot on San Jose and 25th in 1888:

His house is in orange below.

Nice front yard! Cool discovery – that octagon is a 50 foot windmill that lasted until at least 1915.

In 1896 Cornelius threw a summer saturday night party at his house that was pleasant enough to be noticed by the SF Call:

He continued to run the bar for at least another decade until his sons (or so I assume) took over:

Remember that 212 changed to 242 in the mid 00′s.

You can see the progression on this block of San Jose Ave from 1889 to then (and effectively today). 1889, 1900, 1915, 1950. (Rotated with west up, north to the right.)

UPDATE: I initially thought he got to live in the cool house that now sits there, but I just figured out it was not built until 1916. But a long-time Mission dweller named John Stelling moved in soon after it was built, and lived there until 1924. Residents of 242 from 1911-1924 listed here.

UPDATED UPDATE: The current owner of 242 SJ reports that Mayor Angelo Rossi (1931-1944) may have owned the property, and that

Rossi was also a bootlegger and rumor has it that his fortune more than doubled during prohibition. We recently opened a wall in the basement and found more than a case of very old Carta Blanca bottles that probably were holed up there by a resident drunk or construction worker as we think that part of the house was added afterwards.

John Stelling was a bookkeeper, and I thought it was a bit odd he moved into a giant house like that. One possibly related tidbit — he worked for Rolph Shipping, owned by Rossi’s predecessor, Mayor “Sunny Jim” Rolph (1911-1931), who helped start Muni amongst other things. Connections?

But back to Cornelius –  the last record I have of him of  before he passed on to the great big bar in the sky is 1909. His family continued to run the bar until Prohibition. (Given the number of bars in the city, that transition must have been a brutal real estate issue.) Afterwards, it was a cigar shop, a restaurant, and a grocery.

(As for after 1927, that would involve me actually getting up and going to a library which isn’t going to happen soon.)

So — next time you’re in the Dovre, make a toast to Cornelius Crowley and his epic 35 year bar empire.


The Sun Strikes Back

January 23, 2010

The battleground:

The front lines, with Bernalites and La Lenguans scurrying to take cover:

An ominous counterattack:

The sun rallies with massive discharges of energy:

This flight barely made it off of Bernal Field.


Se Valencia, Se Vende

December 21, 2009

Mission Local does some real reporting and provides us with a follow up on the April update on commercial properties up and down the 26th-less Valencia.

  • The mysterious space next to ATA (not the UnAmerican Apparel, but on the corner with the awesome wooden wall) will be the Viracocha Creation Factory — a home décor store by day, and a performance space by night.

  • a wine bar with film screenings is planned at 1270 Valencia (N of 24th)

  • Zaytoon is still waiting on permits

Bonus points for whoever comes up with best idea for this place:

(But whatever it becomes, they need to keep the signs.)


18th St Gulch, The Willows, Valencia St Hotel

December 7, 2009

KevMo at MissionMission recently referenced the classic shot of the Valencia St. Hotel between 18th and 19th after the 1906 earthquake.   But that shot doesn’t do justice to how big the sinkholes on Valencia were or how much of the hotel sank. The hotel before the quake:

“When the quake struck, patrons in an all night coffee shop on the bottom floor of the four-story hotel ran from the building just in time to watch the building simultaneously lurch forward and sink, making the hotel’s fourth floor the hotel’s only floor above ground.” (Bancroft Library)

(UC Berkeley)

A sinkhole opened up later, right where all those people were standing. Reader Dave Dennison points out that the sinkhole was due to a broken water main, and at least 40 people drowned.

(All these years I thought these shots with the Valencia St Hotel on the left were looking south, but I was wrong — they are to the north. It certainly makes the above shot with the approaching fire make more sense.)

Here’s the 1899 Sanborn map of Valencia between 18th and 19th.  You can see the two big water mains, 22″ and 16″, running down Valencia.

Another view of the sinkhole – you can see the water mains.

The steeple in the first two shots aren’t visible in the picture below, or in the sinkhole shot. There was a 5.0 aftershock at 2:25pm on the 18th. Did it come down in the aftershock or during the rescue attempts?

(via sfmuseum.org)

Soon after these pictures were taken, fire swept through the area. Those still trapped who didn’t drown, well…

(via SFPL)

More on the Valencia St Hotel here.

The “18th St Gulch” (for the lack of a better term — feel free to come up with a catchier name) was bigger than I realized.  This sketch of the Mission from the 1850 looks NE from around 21st and Liberty and gives some indication of its depth.

Zooming in on the bottom right, we see the gulch at what will be Dolores and 18th, with a stagecoach hurtling out of control (ok, probably not, as it’s not even the steepest part).

I traced the topology contour lines from the 1859 US Coast Survey Map and made quick and dirty overlays to show just how much was filled in before the 1906 quake.  Each color gradient is a 20 foot change.

The gulley dropped over 40 feet in half a block! At roughly 12 feet per storey, that pretty much explains where the Valencia St Hotel went. (The green area is the Willows beer garden from the 1850s/60s, and the Valencia St Hotel would later be built on the bottom left corner.) Zooming in a bit:

Note also the gulley along the west side of mission between 21st and 18th, as well as between Lapidge and Linda.

Here’s the overlay of the Valencia St Hotel on the gulch map. (Valencia on the right, Guerrero on the left). Click to zoom.

This litho of the Mission in 1860 looks west from around what is now Mariposa and Utah (via Calisphere):

Zooming in on the left we see the steep ascent above Mission Creek, with the Willows in front of the trees.  The road in front of the Willows is what will be Mission Street. (via Calisphere).

Here’s the 1859 US Coast Survey Map.  The building on the bottom left of the map (and the top center of the lithograph) may be the Jewish Cemetery. If so, Dolores Park would be to the right on the lithograph.

The background of this picture of the Willows in the 1864 taken from the Union Race Course (via SFPL) gives some indication of the slope.

I leave it as an exercise to the reader to determine where not to buy a house (or invest in a sound foundation).


NYT Disses La Lengua

November 28, 2009

The New York Times waxes rhapsodic over Bernal Heights and Glen Park in the Nov 27 Escapes section.

Looks like someone broke out the thesaurus:

Bernal Heights Natural Area, a 24-acre knob of red Franciscan chert that rises from a sea of colorful row houses like the prow of a ship, has a 360-degree view of San Francisco in its pastel glory. The city ripples into the distance in all directions…

(Knob of red chert? Pastel glory? Perhaps the author was attacked by a Pantone color wheel as a child.  Hey, Pastel Glory would be a great name for a band.)

They properly acknowledge Mission as the western border of Bernal, but they then have the nerve to diss La Lengua:

The 24th Street Mission BART stop is actually closer to Bernal Heights than is the Glen Park station, but the walk from there has little scenic appeal.

Ha ha, little do they know that Mission St is a giant DMZ and Valencia is the way to go. (Oh crap, looks like they already do.)


What’s Going On Here (Building I Incorrectly Thought Was the Un-AA Space)?

November 19, 2009

UPDATE: I am an idiot and took pictures of 998 Valencia (to the left of ATA) rather than the un-AA space at 988 Valencia (to the right of ATA). I get my empty Valencia storefronts confused. My apologies.

Some redecorating going on in the not-American Apparel on Valencia and 21st former Botanica Yoruba space?

What kind of establishment would want a wall of horizontal beat-up two-by-fours? Discuss.